Category Archives: Surfing

Book Review – Hound of the Sea: Wild Man. Wild Waves. Wild Wisdom by Garrett McNamara

Posted on August 11, 2017 by

Deserves to Be Read (4 out of 5 Stars) McNamara’s surf memoir is a worthy read if only for the fact that he was the first to conquer surfing a 100 ft wave.  This work chronicles McNamara’s life from childhood … Continue reading →

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Book Review – Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan

Posted on May 13, 2016 by

Exquisitely written – thoughtful, honest, credible, and adventurous When I heard about Mr. Finnegan’s memoir, chronicling his lifetime of surfing adventures intertwined with his journey as a writer, I knew it would be one of the best books I’ve read. … Continue reading →

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Book Review: “Caught Inside – A Surfer’s Year on the California Coast” by Daniel Duane

Posted on March 3, 2016 by

Five Stars – Nostalgic – Exquisitely written expose’ on Surfing The book’s description on Amazon was more than enough to convince me to order a copy.  I read the preface as soon as it arrived and wasn’t able to put it … Continue reading →

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